Woven fabric



June 24, 1969 c. BUSTAMANTE 3,

WOVEN FABRIC Original Filed May 23, 1961 Sheet L of 3 INVENTOR. Czsn/zBUST/7M4?! 4 r raw/v5 Y Jl'ln 1969 I c. BUSTAMANTE 3,451,441

WOVEN FABRIC Original Filed May 23, 1961 Sheet of 3 FIG.5

100B 100B 1OOD1OOA 'IOOD 'IOOA IOOD IOOB 100C 100C 100C 1008 100C 1005100C 1 'IOOA INVENTOR.

Cesar Bustamanlre ATTORNEY,

C. BUSTAMANTE June 24, 1969 Sheet Z WOVEN FABRIC Original Filed May 23,1961 FIG. I0

FIG.7

INVENTOR. Cesar Busfamanre 5/ 7 ATTO RNEY United States Patent 3,451,441WOVEN FABRIC Cesar Bustamante, 150 W. 21st St., New York, N.Y. 10011Original application May 23, 1961, Ser. No. 111,948, now Patent No.3,156,265, dated Nov. 10, 1964. Divided and this application May 10,1962, Ser. No. 194,750

Int. Cl. D03d 3/00 US. Cl. 139-384 8 Claims This invention is related ingeneral to the art of weaving, and more particularly to an improvedfabric weave.

This application is a division of copending Ser. No. 111,948, filed May23, 1961, now =U.S. Patent No. 3,156,265.

An object of this invention is to provide an improved fabric weavehaving a selvedge edge along the length of a woven fabric formed with achain or looped stitched.

Another object is to automatically interweave onto a fabric woven inaccordance with this invention a metallic, plastic, leather link or thelike so as to give the woven fabric a pleasing and ornamentalappearance.

A feature of this invention resides in the provision that fabricproduced thereby is particularly suitable for automatically makingelastic belts and the like of woven thread with and/or withoutornamental links interwoven thereinto.

Still another feature resides in the arrangement and operation of theweft thread hook and latching needles for attaining the chain or loopedstitched selvedge edge in a fabric woven in accordance with thisinvention.

Other features and advantages will become readily apparent whenconsidered in view of the drawings and description pertaining thereto inwhich:

FIG. 1 is a fragmentary pictorial plan view of the weaving station withthe hook needle fully retracted.

FIG. 2 is a fragmentary pictorial plan view of the weaving station withthe hook needle protracted to pick up the weft thread.

FIG. 3 is an enlarged detail of the improved needle construction forweaving the weft thread illustrating the position of the weft thread inpreparation for forming the chain or looped stitch.

FIG. 4 illustrates the arrangement of the needle parts in chain stitchforming position.

FIG. 5 illustrates a bottom plan view of a fragmentary portion of anornamental fabric woven in accordance with this invention.

FIG. 5A is a schematic end view of the ornamental fabric of FIG. 5showing how the link sections are retained.

FIGS. 6, 7 and 8 illustrate the various positions of the warp threadsduring a weaving operation in accordance with this invention.

FIG. 9 illustrates a detail of a modified link.

FIG. 10 is a section view taken along line 10-10 of FIG. 9.

It will be understood that the invention, to be herein described indetail, is applicable to the art of weaving in general. However, theinvention will be described with particular reference to the weaving offabrics having ornamental links interwoven thereinto. More particularlythe invention will be described with reference to the making of elasticor stretchable fabric or belts formed of woven elastic and/or inelasticthreads, and which has interwoven thereinto links formed of any suitablematerial such as metal, plastic, leather and the like. While the linksmay assume any desired shape, the links 27, as illustrated in FIGS. 5and 8, are formed with a scalloped leading edge 27A and a trailing edge27B having formed therein corresponding V-shaped notches 270. It will benoted that links 27 having an even number of scallops 3,451,441 PatentedJune 24, 1969 and links 27 having odd number of scallops are alternatelyinterwoven onto the face of the belt or fabric in overlying relationshipso as to give a scale-like appearance. Further, the arrangement andshape of the links 27 and 27' are such that they do not interfere witheither the flexibility of the finished goods or the elasticity thereofwhen the fabric is formed of woven elastic threads. For added effect thelinks 27" may be formed with scallops having a slightly raised outercontour 28 to give a further rounded or bead-like appearance thereto.

In accordance with this invention the improved fabric weave comprisesthe division of the warp threads into at least two sets 100B and 100C.See FIGS. 3, 4, and 6 to 8. With the two sets of Warp threads 100B, 100Cheld apart, the pickup of the weft thread 101 is made; and the weftthread 101 inserted transversely between the two parted sets 100B, 100Cof warp threads 100. The pickup 0f the Weft thread 101 in accordancewith this invention is made with a hook needle 102 in a manner to form aweft thread loop 101A on the shank of the needle 102. With the weftthread 101 positioned between the two warp sets 100B, 100C, thepositions of the warp sets 100B, 100C are interchanged. Upon changingposition of the warp threads 100B, 100C the hook needle 102 is againadvanced to pick up the weft thread and forms the next weft thread loop101B. In doing so the previously formed weft loop 101A slides onto therear end of the needle and over a latch needle 103 which is slidablymounted within a recess 102A of hook needle 102 as needle 102 advancesto the left to hook the next weft thread to form the next weft loop.Upon return or retraction of hook needle 102, with the next weft loop101B, the latch needle 103 is timed to close the hook needle 102 so thatthe retained loop 101A is cast off needle 102 and over the held loop101B as shown in FIG. 4. Thus a chain stitch or looped selvedge edge isformed along the longitudinal edge of the woven fabrics. In the fullyretracted position of the hook needle 102, the latch needle 103 is movedto open the hook so that the operation can be repeated. With a weaveconstructed in the manner described the necessity of the heretofore useof a flying shuttle is eliminated together with its inherentdisadvantages.

To interweave links 27, 27' onto the face of a fabric Woven as abovedescribed, the warp threads are further divided into two additional sets100A and 100D. As shown in FIGS. 6 to 8 the warp thread sets 100A, 100Dalso interchange relative position with the changing of position of warpthread sets 100B, 100C, but warp sets 100A, 100D are timed so that eachset 100A and 100D is respectively angled with respect to either sets100B, 100C to provide spacing therebetween for receiving links 27 or27'. Thus upon the warp sets 100A, 100D changing position, therespective links 27, 27 are alternately secured to the face of thefabric by either warp threads 100A or 100D. Note that the warp threadsets 100A, 100D have an even and odd number of threads, respectivelycorresponding to the number of even or odd scalloped links 27, 27'.

The woven fabric F as shown in FIG. 5 comprises a series of warp threads100 which are grouped into warp threads 100A, 100B, 100C and 100D with aweft thread 101 woven between the warp threads 100. The weft thread 101is interwoven between the warp threads as a transversely extending loopwhereby the loop end 101B of one weft thread is threaded through theloop 101B of the next preceding weft thread 101. Thus one edge P1 of thewoven fabric is defined by a chain or looped stitch. Interposed betweenthe weave of the fabric are a series of links 27 and 27 As shown, eachlink is provided with a scalloped edge in which alternate links areprovided with an even and odd number of scallops, link 27 containing aneven number of scallops and link 27 having an odd number of scallops.The fabric is woven so that certain warp threads 100A are used to securethe even links 27 in position to one side of the fabric and the warpthreads 100D secure the odd scalloped links 27 to the same side of thefabric. Thus in the finished fabric, the links 27 and 27' are secured inoverlapping position on one side of the fabric to give a scale-likeappearance. To render the fabric elastic or stretchable, certain of thewarp threads may be formed of an elastic or stretchable type thread.

The sequence of the weaving operation with the ornamental linksinterwoven in the fabric is as follows:

Referring to FIG. 6, with the layer of warp threads 100C, 100B separatedand the odd links holding warp threads 100A separated from layer 1003, alink is moved into position between layer 100A and 100B. In thisposition the comb 97 is in position as shown in FIG. 2 and the guard 98is firm against the weft thread of the preceding weaving step. With theparts so arranged the needle drive means and connected linkage causesthe hook needle carrier 86 to advance the hook needle 102 through theslot in guard 98 toward the holder 105 of the weft thread 101. Uponhooking and picking up the weft thread, the hook needle 102 is retractedto the right as shown in FIG. 1. In moving to the right, pin 95 oncarrier 86 trips lever 90 to release the latch needle 103 and it movesto close the hook of needle 102 to retain the loop of weft thread on thehook while casting off the loop of the preceding weft thread, ashereinbefore described to form the chain stitch. With the hook needle102 fully retracted the latch needle is urged to unlatched position andthe comb 97 and guard 98 is rocked away from the weaving station. As thecomb 97 and guard 98 is moved out of the way by the timing of a drivemeans, another drive means effects actuation of the shedding means. Theaction of the weaving bars is such that the position of warp threadlayer 100A and B are interchanged with layers 100C and D, as shown inFIG. 7. With the warp threads in this position the comb 97 and guard areagain moved toward the weaving station. The hook needle is again movedto the left to pick up the weft thread 101. In doing so, the loop of thepreceding weft thread slides over the open latch needle and onto theshank of the hook needle 103 as the hook needle 102 moves to the left,FIG. 3. During retraction, the hook and latch needle 102, 103 cooperateto again effect the chain stitch as described. The comb 97 and guard 98again move away from the weaving station and the separated warp layers100A, B and 100C, D interchange to assume a position as shown in FIG. 8.In this position the warp threads layer 100D is spaced from layers 100Aand B. In this position the press stamps the even scalloped edge link 27and its cooperating transfer means T is timed to position the blankedeven scalloped links between warp layer 100A and 100D. Thus the comb'and guard 98 is again timed to move toward the weaving station. As theguard moves into position between layers 100C and 100A to pack the weftthread between the warp threads of layers 100C and A, the hook needle isagain advanced toward the weft holder to again pick up the weft thread101. The hook needle 102 with the weft thread is again retracted withthe next chain stitch being formed as described, and the comb and guardsubsequently moved away from the weaving station so that the weavingdrive means may again effectively interchange the layers or warp threadsto a position illustrated in FIG. 7. This completes the weavingsequence, which is continuously repeated to form a fabric belt of agiven length having interwoven ornamental links.

A feature of this weaving operation to be noted is that the Weft threadon each pass is formed of a double strand, in accordance with thisinvention, with the looped end of the double strand forming the chainstitch.

The improved method for weaving thread into fabric in accordance withthis invention includes the steps of separating of warp threads into aplurality of layers, holding the two layers apart, picking up a weftthread and inserting the same between the separated layers so as to forma loop on one end thereof, interchanging the position of the warp threadlayers, then picking up the next weft thread while retaining the loopedend of the preceding weft thread, and inserting the next weft threadbetween the interchanged warp thread layers, and forming a chain stitchby pulling the loop of the next weft thread through the loop of thepreceding retained weft thread along a selvedge edge portion of thefabric; and repeating the above sequence to weave a fabric to a givenlength.

In securing an ornamental link onto the weave of the fabric, the warpthreads are additionally divided into a plurality of auxiliary warpthreads which are adapted to separate from the other or main layers ofwarp threads, stamping a link from suitable blank material andthereafter positioning the link between one of the auxiliary layers ofwarp thread and a main layer of warp thread so that when the layers ofwarp threads are interchanged during the weaving operation, theauxiliary warp threads will secure the links in place on the weave ofthe main layers of warp thread, and the operation repeated as often asdesired.

From the foregoing method an improved weave is attained. It will benoted that the fabric resulting therefrom has its warp threadsinterchanged about a double strand of weft threads, i.e. a weft threadfolded on itself to form a loop along one of the selvedge edges of thefabric. The arrangement is such that the looped end of the next formedweft loop is extended through the loop of the preceding weft loop andthereby terminate a selvedge edge of the fabric with a chain stitch. Thenormal weaving operation heretofore known did not produce such a weave.

While the instant invention has been disclosed with reference to aparticular embodiment thereof, it is to be appreciated that theinvention is not to be taken as limited to all of the details thereof asmodifications and variations thereof may be made without departing fromthe spirit or scope of the invention.

What is claimed is:

1. A woven fabric comprising a plurality of warp threads divided intotwo layers, a doubled over strand of weft thread defining a loop at oneend thereof inserted between the respective warp thread layers, and thelooped end of one weft thread adapted to receive the looped end of thenext succeeding weft thread to define a chain stitch along a selvedgeedge of said fabric and a third layer of warp threads, and a fiatscalloped edge link interwoven between said third layer and one of theother of said two layers of warp threads.

2. A woven fabric comprising a plurality of warp threads divided intotwo layers, a double over strand of weft thread defining a loop at oneend thereof inserted between the respective warp thread layers, and thelooped end of one weft thread adapted to receive the looped end of thenext succeeding weft thread to define a chain stitch along a selvedgeedge of the fabric and including two auxiliary layers of warp threads,and a link alternately secured between one of said auxiliary warp threadlayers and the two layers of warp threads and other auxiliary warpthread layer.

3. A woven fabric comprising a plurality of warp threads divided intotwo layers, a double over strand of weft thread defining a loop at oneend thereof inserted between the respective warp thread layers, and thelooped end of one weft thread adapted to receive the looped end of thenext succeeding weft thread to define a chain stitch along a selvedgeedge of said fabric, and two auxiliary layers of warp threads, and alink alternately secured between one of said auxiliary warp threadlayers and the two layers of warp thread and other auxiliary warp threadlayer wherein said links have a scalloped edge portion, and the threadsof the auxiliary warp layers are positioned between scallops of saidlinks to prevent lateral 5 displacement of said links when secured ontothe woven fabric.

4. The invention as defined in claim 3 wherein alternate links areformed with an even and odd number of scallops.

5. The invention as defined in claim 3 wherein the scalloped portions ofthe links have rounded contours to give said links a beaded appearance.

6. The invention as defined in claim 3 wherein the links are flat.

7. A method of interweaving ornamental links into fabric comprising thesteps of separating the warp threads of the fabric into two main warpthread layers and at least one auxiliary warp thread set, holding saidtwo main warp thread layers and said auxiliary set apart one from theother, positioning a link between said auxiliary warp thread set and oneof said main thread layers, picking up a weft thread and inserting saidweft thread between the parted main warp thread layers so that the weftthread forms a loop along the selvedge edge of the fabric, interchangingthe position of the auxiliary Warp thread set and said one main warpthread layer positioned adjacent said link with the portion of the othermain layer of warp threads to cross said weft thread, picking up thenext weft thread and inserting it between the interchanged auxiliarywarp thread set and said one main layer and said other main warp threadlayer, and pulling the loop of said next weft thread through the loop ofthe preceding weft thread to form a chain stitch along the selvedge edgeof the fabric.

8. A method of interweaving ornamental links into fabric comprising thesteps of separating the warp threads of the fabric into two main warplayers and two auxiliary warp thread sets, holding said two main warpthread sets and one of said auxiliary sets apart one from the other,positioning a link between one of said auxiliary warp thread sets andone of said main warp layers, picking up a weft thread and insertingsaid weft thread between the separated warp layers so that the weftthread forms a loop along the selvedge edge of the fabric, interchangingthe position of said one auxiliary warp set and said one main w-arpthread set positioned adjacent the link with the warp threads of theother warp layer and other auxiliary warp set, picking up the next weftthread and inserting it between the separated said one layer and oneauxiliary set of warp threads and said other main layer and auxiliaryset, pulling the loop of said next weft thread through the loop definedby the preceding weft thread to form a chain stitch along the selvedgeedge of the fabric, interchanging the position of said warp layers againso that said main warp thread layers and said other auxiliary warp setare parted one from the other, inserting a link between the parted saidother auxiliary set and main warp layer, picking up the next succeedingweft thread, inserting it between the parted said other auxiliary warpset and main warp thread layers so as to form a loop at one end thereof,and pulling the loop of the next succeeding weft thread through the loopof the next preceding weft thread.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,300,718 11/1942 Williams et a1.l39425 2,354,435 7/1944 Stedman l39-420 2,396,482 3/1946 Alderfer 1344212,609,013 9/1952 Arnyot 139-384 2,891,583 6/1956 Jones et a1 139124.1

HENRY S. JAUDON, Primary Examiner.

US. Cl. X.R. 139421

1. A WOVEN FABRIC COMPRISING A PLURALITY OF WARP THREADS DIVIDED INTOTWO LAYERS, A DOUBLE OVER STRAND OF WEFT THREAD DEFINING A LOOP AT ONEEND THEREOF INSERTED BETWEN THE RESPECTIVE WARP THREAD LAYERS, AND THELOOPED END OF ONE WEFT THREAD ADAPTED TO RECEIVE THE LOOPED END OF THENEXT SUCCEEDING WEFT THREAD TO DEFINE A CHAIN STITCH ALONG A SELVEDGEEDGE OF SAID FABRIC AND A THIRD LAYER OF WARP THREADS, AND A FLATSCALLOPED EDGE LINK INTERWOVEN BETWEEN SAID THIRD LAYER AND ONE OF THEOTHER OF SAID TWO LAYERS OF WARP THREADS.